T H E N E W S B U L L E T I N - about E85 and more...
|Report 37 (2016-05-14):
This report written for just a year ago was about newfound evidence of a fuel additive called ”FeTA” and which together with Swedish 95-octane petrol (the cheapest) could get a 10 percent reduction in consumption for a ordinary passenger car equipped with regular fuel injection.
Something went wrong because I have done accurate measurements of fuel consumption using a smaller external tank with level view. No consumption reduction with FeTA has been observed. Ordinarily untouched gasoline without any additive components shows at least as good consumption as petrol with FeTA - no difference. The lowest measured value actually got the untouched gasoline bought on St1.
When I began the samples with my new measure car in March 2017, I started with FeTA because for a period of at least one year I constantly loaded each new tank with this special additive, which combines iron oleate and HMTA dissolved in gasoline. After the measurement, the car was restored to its original condition and only 95-octane unleaded petrol was refueled without additives. At least 500 miles were made before the second round of measurements. Nothing of FeTA was left that could disturb the measurements - only the car's fuel according to the instructions was in the tank, but I obviously bought petrol in a dunk from St1 that I filled the external tank before the measurement, which I will explain in detail at later reports.
I was a bit confused when started about a month ago with simple BF95 instead of FeTA-fueled gasoline and began making long journeys to both Stockholm and Gothenburg. It seemed like normal 95 bought from anywhere have undergoing an update? It did not feel like when the car was newly purchased (2014) before I started with A40 (I think). In fact, I actually (before recent updates here) had time to do a comparison between a batch of untouched BF95 and a batch of BF95 plus acetone. It was not like with the Xantia, for then it was clear that something had happened - but nothing now anymore.
The engine on the Citroen (my previously car) started to go uneven if diesel or any other heavier petroleum product not was dosed for a long time. This is not the case for my recently car that goes well on untouched BF95. Either are later injector designs better adapted to this car regular gasoline fuel, or have the oil companies sharply tightened themselves in recent years and improved our commercial fuels across the board? If later statement really happened then it can explain why FeTA is a completely unnecessary complement nowadays. For my Peugeot 407 at the moment, there are not many additives (if any) that make any use anymore. The usual original petrol from any station is good enough.
About FeTA 2016:
In March 2016 I visit the Swedish vehicle inspection and nothing indicated that FeTA had mess up anything - environmental values were good. Because no measurement was made on HC (all kinds of hydrocarbons), there's no data about it. CO (carbon monoxide) was measured only in 2500 rpm and was nil. The oxygen sensor average value was 1.00 - my car goes well with FeTA and no external problems have been discovering.
After hundreds of miles with FeTA additives so can one note a certain growth of iron oxide inside the combustion chambers. If this is good or bad is difficult to predict but it should be said that I have noticed some misfire occasionally, but not often. One can also see it by studying the spark channel that runs from the positive electrode to the gang house. That said, it is difficult to avoid such a scenario if one choosing to run with an iron formation fuel but one can hope that most of it is iron tetra oxide?
Copperas or iron(II)sulphate can sometimes be found in sacks (15 kilo) with a clearly reduced price. It is used to iron enrich and strengthen lawns. This substance that one must consume pretty much of in the production of omega-Fe is now nearly for free! This also concerns I¤b and MCO20. The most expensive component is methylated spirits (for example: Red Ethanol from Carwise) followed by Acetone. Hexamethylenetetramine can one buy in hunting and leisure stores online for a cheap price.
Before you start and produce omega-Fe you should read parts of the section again. This applies mainly when the soap will be prepared before it is incorporated into copperas. In the previous report was given suggestions for a sensible olive oil (in Sweden) that you can buy. The changes in approach applies when the soap is dissolved in the water, which can take quite a long time - to simply wait until all soap is dissolved. That the time allocated when the turnover reaction should last not exceeded! And finally: not be stingy with the water when A40 should be enriched with iron.
I upgraded this stereo transmitter a lot this winter which meant that the sound and the stereo image were improved significantly. Now, when we for a cheap price can buy headphones with built-in FM radio is the ability to fix wireless audio transmission in their abode not far away. You can therefore avoid annoying delays / lags that other systems suffer from, like Bluetooth and different wireless stuffs - when imbibing audiovisual contents.
A COMPETITION !
Is hereby announced. Esstronic.com has grown a lot over the years and the risk is that the site contains errors about things I (the owner of the domain) simply got wrong or careless mistakes that passed the proofs? It may be technical contingencies, misunderstanding or even linguistic issues... The individual who after the competition ended have found the most conspicuous / grossest faux pas regarding Esstronic will be rewarded with a prize.
The prize is to choose any electronic circuit from this site which will then be sent to the winner free of charge and with at least 10 % of the components soldered. Observations can be sent via e-mail or comments. Time will tell how it all continues...
|Report 36 (2015-10-06):
Seems like it's time for a new round with my peers in the oil business...
Pardon the delay but now it's finally moving. The reason for this absence is mainly due to a single reason. In November last year, I sold my ramshackle Citroen while a better used car was purchased. It is a Peugeot 407 SW 06 (petrol). I tried to find as good as a Xantia but it was difficult, if not close to hopeless. Some cars were test driven: Ford, Saab, Passat etc. I also drove a C5 which I assumed was the closest one could get a Xantia - I thought, but it was a bit disappointing. Everything worked out however when I sat in the Peugeot for then appeared the feeling of perfection and therefore got this car a new owner.
The first thing I was thinking to deal with was to manipulate the software. Thus, via OBD2 connector to download the binary file and replace it with a new better optimized file. The reason this is possible is that the ordinary software is designed for every imaginable climate and situations the car might end up in. With an update is a fine tune performed for the geographical place - taking into account, temperature variations, height above sea etc. But it crapped out soon because I could not find any binary file for my car online. Those who perform this type of program improvements are sure to keep things well locked up - for there is much money in circulation when people ask for an update of the software or the so-called chip optimization. Somewhere there's probably the right stuff, though one have not been able to settle into anything yet. I actually bought a DVD plus an elm-dongle from a website calling themselves Toad (Total OBD Auto Diagnostics), an Australian company but was greatly disappointed when I got the stuff. Outdated software that only could run in XP and barely there. Most seemed not to work as promised and when I need advice, I could not post my complaint-mails on the site. Roughly where I realized that one has been screwed - well done! Its part of the game that no one really knows what is in the bag when ordering from distant places. One can always see it as a gift to a beggar or was it a ugly toad? Admittedly in the beginning was the island populated by criminals, but one can not pull everyone together... Finally I got a fairly sensible program: MPPS from uobd2.net plus a dongle which actually seems to work, however no file to my model.
Drive in the current situation on petrol and good is that. Today's E85 is pure shit ethanol as one no longer want to be aware of, but I will anyway convert the car as time goes by, and then it starts to get really interesting considering what I've cobbled together in the past.
Now I'm not sure if isobutanol have the same destructive power as isopropanol (IPA) has, but if so: no opening time- or consumption reduction will occur. None of my fuel additives would then work under current regulations, apart from the lubricating function. The addition of IBA must cease first. As I said, it is this additive which then makes E85 to such a crappy fuel which many already pointed out earlier, that I am almost completely sure at. But the race is not entirely over, there are methods to convert the IPA or IBA to acetone and thus neutralize the problem. This requires a lot of time and cogitation until anything will appear.
Quite near said paragraph can one read about denatured alcohol or methylated spirits (methylated spirits in Sweden is reddish) and its regulations. Some time ago was I irritated because all denatured alcohol in Sweden contains IPA. Methylated spirits, washer fluid, stove fuel and carburettor protections are basically the same thing. It contains ethanol and IPA but with different proportions, as well as some minor amounts of additives. The producers think it is good with IPA in methylated spirits because it cleans better (IPA dissolves grease better than ethanol). If you want to burn methylated spirits so should one choose a better suited alcohol category that produce less soot than IPA do. Manufacturers of methylated spirits have however great freedom to denature with what they believe is appropriate. This opening for various types in the trade and so it is.
I have also conversed with the Swedish Aspen about why they stopped produce ”Aspen E” and the reason is as following: for a long time has Aspen delivering fuel to Camaro Cup and recently invested Camaro Cup in new engines. The manufacturer Chevrolet Performance had taken the step from ethanol and instead focused on the fuel - alkylate petrol. The engine LS3 was therefore adapted to petrol and thus vanish the point in continuing produce Aspen E - which one might consider as a finer version of the E85, but even this must contain 0.5 % isobutanol.
Interesting things about petrol is afoot
It is now established that it is iron-oleate that works together with hexamine - not ferrocene. Because of previously unclear results, I continued with new samples and it is now well understood that what causing the power enhancement is iron oleate in combination with HMTA. Iron oleate or as it also is called here: omega-Fe or ωFe.
Is the first component and is known earlier as an iron additive with lubrication functions.
Is the second component. Thus HMTA/hexamine.
Is the new fuel additive (denaturized Ethanol Carrier with hexamine) and can actually keep both hexamine and some iron salts. Hexamine is the standard ingredient but then you can choose which iron component you think is most pleasant. dEC+ is an alcoholic carrier based on ethanol but may also contain methanol - it depends on the circumstances. It appeared that the most optimal is to let A40 keep iron oleate and dEC+ hexamine. Thus, one can then bring iron oleate and hexamine in the tank on a neat manner at each filling occasion.
This combination I now call for: FeTA-fuel. A so-called portmanteau of iron and HMTA.
My fears were confirmed when I realized two years later (2017) that FeTA is not at all consumption-lowering. Probably a measuring faux pas has been on the go. Regular petrol without any additives has shown same consumption as a FeTA-charged fuel, but I'm not sure. Read later reports for more information.
The text as it was formulated 2015: ”in spite of that FeTA clearly has demonstrated a reduction in fuel consumption want I raise a note of caution that others might not will notice this. I have been through similar phenomenon before: that when one discovered something so will it actually work best in the beginning, later the results become more and more mediocre. Do not ask me why... Also, I have not had the time to familiarize myself with all the mechanisms that control the events that has been demonstrated which iron oleate and dEC+. Motor fuels are also very much fabricated products and no one except the person in control can anticipate what might happen.”
The meaning or function that this substance possesses begins now more and more to become clear. It is hexamine that does the job i.e. the substance that leads to the consumption reduction. However, to enable it requires a catalyst which in turn depends on the fuel. Applies petrol one should use omega-Fe, is the fuel E85 should hydrogen enriched naphtha and/or glycol be used. Possibly ferrocene could be the right choice of catalyst for diesel. The question is how to get the right dose hexamine in diesel? One way is to feed a certain amount of E85 with hexamine and then use it as an additive.
There is a risk to use ferrocene in an Otto engine and it is that the coating of iron oxide suddenly became electrically conductive. This leads to a short circuit - the spark is absent, which is noticeable when the engine starts to misfire. Then you have to loosen the spark plugs and clean them from the oxide coating. The reason is that it forms to much iron trioxide instead of iron tetra oxide. The four-fledged iron oxide is not conducting.
It should be said that I drove several mils with a high content of ferrocene before the engine start to protest. To my surprise, it did not help to clean, grind and polish the spark plugs. Although I could not see the slightest residue of any iron oxide - remained the problems with misfires. So there was only one thing left to do - purchasing new spark plugs. So the advice I can give is: do NOT use ferrocene if you have a Otto!
One fuel additives that contains ferrocene is STP Power Booster from Halfords.
Much has undergone changes due to to the oleate, dEC+ and the ferrocene - for it shows when one surfing around among the fuel additives.
One might think that someone should have developed a patent on this about FeTA, but so far is nothing. Until further you will have content yourself with my undistributed goodies - for it must be well enough for a while? Will soon show up here again as I am concerned.
|Report 35 (2014-10-04):
Maybe it's time to write something?
Better late than never, one might say. An obvious trend is surely that the interest of my business slowly have subsided, given how rarely something about fuels and similar subjects are updated here. Though in all honesty, it seems that most about E85 already has been discussed. This could probably be changed if something occurs. Let me explain later what I mean by - occurs.
Much has happened the recent months about things beyond my control. My leisure has been exiguous to clarify a little better. And my Xantia still rolling but not much more than so. It is now in the 110 th thousandth mile but should still be in traffic for a while, but as time goes on so will this car been shutdown for time and eternity. Then will another car (better used and running on petrol) come to the rescue. I shall then immediately convert it to ethanol and possibly equipping it with additional couplings, hoses and pump - to a second tank, so that one at any time quickly can turn tanks (a can with level glass) and start measuring (real) energy consumptions - that's really something! I still have a few cards left up in my sleeve, even though I suffered technical setbacks lately.
The problem I had with leaking coolant is since long fixed. It was the plastic connector that leads coolant into the passenger compartment which started to crack and thus leak. Only a minimal hole is apparently enough to create a puzzle. It was not until it began syringe with a fully visible beam that one began to think - ahh, maybe it's best to fix this... Luckily, it went with a little force to pull out the connector (get crumbled). A copper-story had to replace the whole caboodle. I have to be one of the best anti-freeze customers in Sweden, or at least was.
The caliper failure was due to a previously incorrectly fitted front brake pad that had divided themselves into three parts. Braking action was for this reason rather indefinite. Sometimes pinched brake with a bang, sometimes for no reason was a strange sound produced as if a pebble been wedged between the stuff or something. It was the little tab on the piston which was directed downwards instead of upwards and in this way was responsible for the entire braking force on the poor pad, for many years to be said.
Last year also the fuel pump stops. The car stalled and had therefore to be towed (daddy). Since I have an electronic alarm connected to it, I saw that something was not right before it happened. It is a high intensity flashing LED that is controlled by the resistance of the electric motor commutator. The resistance had been changed so that the LED flashed at the most. The defect was that the coals had cut a narrow groove/ring through the copper plates (which is like pie wedges glued around a disc). In this way ceased the electrical contact between the coals and the commutator. So it was not the coal that causes it which was sparingly used, but it was the copper that had been consumed. How is that possible? The coal that is of graphite is meant to be consumed first so one not has to replace the copper. As the electric motor internal parts are soaked in fuel including the commutator, one could speculate in some kind of electrolysis in combination with old precipitated sulphate (derived from my previous experiments with oxalic acid in Di66). I was found residues of a yellow powder in and around the fuel pump. I actually soldered with radio-solder new copper plates on top of the old ones and this has kept several hundred mils, but is well not to be recommended I guess - yes it is, if one currently has a bad economy... It was a bit tricky to disassemble the fuel pump but otherwise there was nothing wrong in it.
This Xantia is not entirely okay as the replacements of belts should have been done for several thousand mils since. The front wheel bearings make a hell of a noise - time to change. Ball joints and steering joints are loose. Nothing however will be done - I let the car die by itself. Oil consumption is quite significant. Most likely it leaks through the valve seals plus from the block gasket. However, this is perfectly normal - because it's easier to count the few French cars that not leak oil than those who does (oil throws, someone said).
A tricky problem that always existed is the strange idling, as in season and out drops to zero - the car stops suddenly. This usually occurs when running away with a cold engine - the engine starts to get hot and so one depress the clutch - heavy steered Christmas tree - in with runner-up and roll up again. However I have been looking and looking over the years but were never able to fix it completely. Contacts has been exercised, earth points carefully refurbished, the ECU has been examined under a microscope etc, etc. The error lingers! Presumably, the computer is programmed in that way? If one runs however with a good fuel and fats on a little extra - then usually nothing happens, should be said.
I still think that Citroën Xantia is (was) a hell of a successful design, with some shortcomings. The hydraulics had been reliable and the car has in general worked well - being a reliable means of transportation. One moment a streamlined arrow on the road, in the second; worst terrain vehicle! Never has this Cither played false when I was far away from home (only in the immediate area). Sometimes has defects occurred but these have gone to fix in place. Also, it looks great.
So, what has now happened with the pre-patented system NAMAG?
One of the reasons it took so long to put together a report is due to the problems with getting NAMAG to function. Not once have any fuel-saving effect been able to be observed after the sample under the report 34, which was conducted during October 2013. De facto nothing really works anymore. The additive T66 still has a lubricating function - but T66 in combination with adapted red glycol is now ineffective. Acetone does still have an effect in E85 but must be dosed regularly as it wears off quickly. It's as if any degradation has been made on purpose at E85 which is now on sale. This I can not prove of course but my guess is that the content of isopropanol or isobutanol has increased in the fuel. Those who followed my experiments know that I previously warned for IPA and its negative effects on NAMAG. Just speculation but in the current situation it is not possible to use any pulse manipulation of the oxygen sensor signal (an LMD PEX) either. A fuel additive based on glycol is meaningless. What works is actually SH + and in combination with T66. One can overdose SH + quite often because the effect wears off quickly - the car will feel more energetic - that's all! As some might noticed, I have introduced a new additive which I call SHA, which is a white powder that is soluble in alcohols. The second plus sign indicates SHA. SH + thus not contains Hexamine - only SHA-powder, plus a carrier and acetone of course. So, what does SHA consists of? If I'm in the future also are allowed to have my website alone it's probably best to pass on this question.
This with NAMAG's fall is quite serious. Much time and energy has been devoted to developing NAMAG to a working system but that no longer works. Someone should look into the matter and find an answer. Perhaps the situation can be reassessed if something ”occurs”? We'll see what happens here ahead...
Attentive readers have seen that the web page: ”intricate questions and answers...” and the page for ED75 has been modified. ED75 were relegated to the garbage for abysmal desktop products. It's easy to forget that an ethanol diesel fuel may stratify when the temperature drops and that was the case with ED75. Since ethanol's excellent solubility capacity in diesel is so good need none complicate it more - anymore.
|Report 34 (2013-11-13):
Now are we moving towards the dark winter again and Christmas is soon upon us. So far, it's no snow where I live. I remember November the last year and the sun shines as if it was September. However, I have in several weeks tilled my semi-new snow tires and they are actually quieter than my summer tires.
The car is getting on in years and annoying problem appears occasionally. For example; high- oil and cooling waters consumption, brakes locked on and more. The problem with the front brake is probably due to a stuck piston but I have to some extent succeeded in overturning this - so when I run the test rounds, in order to measure the fuel consumption, it is particularly adverse to face that type of problem with this brake. I do not have a clue what the high cooling water consumption depends on but I know that the head gasket at a oil duct is ruptured releasing motor oil, but the cooling water will not enter either the oil or any cylinder. I recently did compression tests for all cylinders and it was high and equal values. Even the spark plugs looked normal - no problems there. In the cooling water I now pour a gluey bun fragrant mess consisting of antifreeze (400 ml), four tablespoons of cinnamon and two tablespoons ginger (powder). Sure, I have also used Bar's leak before but this is surprisingly effective and cheap!
But now the big question
How does it go with the continuing tests about NAM, AG+ and OC?
Both good and bad - so one could summarize it.
The problem is the dosage of AT2 and AG+! I have now learned that the effect from a prepared LFG fuel not always present themselves. As also CS mentioned: ”from time to time drinking the car copious amounts” and it is true. When a dosage goes wrong can the fuel consumption be greater than if one skipped the additives. Unfortunately, I was not prepared for this and recently stalling on a bridge - not so successful. The fact was that the consumption was so high that I assumed that the oxygen sensor had filed for good. One can pay attention to this because the car feels weak and the idle is crappy, thereto will it smoke sharply from the tailpipe. However, when the dosage is correct, then the reverse will occurs - spirited engine with unusually high idle. The way that I measuring the consumption in nowadays is as following: One driving the car until it is stalling (the tank is empty), then one fill in a known amount of fuel and reset the counter meter - then one drive until the tank becomes empty again. This is a nerve-racking method, but what do one not do in the name of science? Exactly what the problem with the dosage depends on is not solved yet and it should also be said that the science that can describe what is happening when an LFG-fuel works, appeared to be obscure. One can not explain with known chemical and physical laws what is going on here.
I've had time to practicing several different dosing methods: The latest was to adding AG+ last, but that's no guarantee. To properly mix up each additive with fuel before next is added is no guarantee. However is it importance which order the additives are added - one should not adding AG+ last as I first stated. Thus dosed AG+ first and AT2 last.
Because of the new findings have changes been made regarding the dosing method and the additive AG+.
It has been stated that the reason for a missing action of an LFG-additive depends on the amount of AT2 or rather the concentration of acetone. In short: too little acetone = no action, too much acetone = no action, the right amount of acetone = action! This is not entirely correct since the fuel ”settles” sometimes when the acetone concentration approaching the upper limit, despite the margins left. So, there is a hump that one always has to strike and once one has done it will the action hold on for weeks. One can assume that some kind of reaction occurs during the time the additives are blended in the fuel and that this reaction not may go too fast! This is the hypotheses I have come up with the last time.
It should be stressed that it is very easy to prevent an ”action” ever occurs with this type of additives. If the oil companies add IPA in our E85 so will it kill all positive effects from an LFG-additive.
Newly who are reading this may be wondering if this has anything to do with E85 conversion? The answer is yes but it is not about getting a vehicle to simply operate on E85 - here we practice the higher school regarding ethanol conversion. You who are content to hook up a Flexitune or a similar device and then fill up with E85 should probably urgently seek some other place.
The rule that AG+ must be added last is not longer valid. AG+ includes and has always included 7% acetone. When AG+ shall be adapted for a lower ethanol content than 85% so must one adding acetone. The dosage factor is always 0,005 (0.5%).
Now valid instruction about dosage of an LFG-additive:
It may seem that the additions must mature first before an effect can be obtained but this is no general rule as I also have experienced an immediately effect, without any waiting period. The waiting ensures that the chemical reaction is completed before the vehicle is used. Strive to increase the waiting time rather than shorten it. If the waiting time is extended into hours or a day reduces the risk of non-action. However, avoid fill in more fuel after the dosing of the additives.
Many people (myself included) are probably curious to know what a tank E85 and these additives can achieve and that I shall now explain...
Need I mention that I'm using the pulse extender IPE-GS and a PEX TCE?
A few weeks ago I filled in 10.55 liters of E85 (according to the station's price counter) derived from this Jet station. Then I added AT2 and AG+ (10.81 liters). The filling of the tank was made after a stalling. It may be mentioned that the tank was absolutely empty because I was struggled like possessed to avoid stopping on a bridge, which however I could not avoid. Well, shortly after the filling of new fuels with additives I drove a short distance, then the car was parked a few days. A cold start was made and a shorter turn around Motala was accomplished. After a week I perform another cold start and a longer ride mostly on the highway with a hint of some city driving. When the car eventually stalled due to lack of fuel standing shows the counter meter on 14.5 mil - this means that the car during the test consummated 31.4 US mpg (0.75 l/mil)! 31.4 with two cold starts, including that the LFG-fuel lay still for a week outdoors, snow tyres, a little chilly autumn weather and a bike strapped to the back - in the absence of other mechanical modifications such as: modified ignition timing, increased compression etc.
This is what happens when everything works and yet it is only E85, thus 85% ethanol...
I find it hard to believe that in these circumstances, including two cold starts and only E85 (without AG+) passes 23 mpg (1 liter per mil), but if we still assume that the consumption then had become 25 mpg (0,95 l/mil), then one gets two interesting numbers:
LFG produces a reduction in the fuel consumption by 26%
This test is consistent with a previous test I did in September. Even then it resulted in consumption around 31.4 mpg (0.75 l/mil). On this occasion was the car used immediately after the filling and dosing (without any waiting time). The car was then run until the engine stalled (again). At such a journey without LFG I know from experience that a consumption around 26 mpg (0.90) is perfectly acceptable and sometimes even lower, but compared with 31.4 is the decrease still more than 10%.
Pure magic... I am aware that what is written here is controversial and difficult to absorb. Surely, someone or some had to question my credibility, but I can assure that I have stuck to the naked truth in all work relating NAMAG+OC
|Report 33 (2013-10-01):
An even longer time than the last time has now passed :) One might think that I begin to tackle off and perhaps begun to doubt? This is probably not the case. This with fuel, E85 and conversions seem stubbornly persistent since this is the only I've worked with since years back.
The reason for this absence here is due to lack of time as the project I've been doing the last six months has demanded total focus. It started with a call from Charles down in K-town for almost a year ago and then has it rolled on. Luckily, my car worked flawlessly even though I've driven hundreds of mil and tested one the one and one the other. Thanks Citroen! Without this car it would probably not been much to hang in the Christmas tree.
There is a lot of new material that has arisen in the recent times and it should be summarized. I start from the beginning:
Charles told me that he had tested his own extremely sharp glycol additives and noticed a startling consumption reduction. Thus, a converted car running on a mixed fuel consisting of E85 and V-power has shown the same consumption as gasoline. This information was so interesting that I (in the spring this year) decided to see what some of my additives can achieve and if that Charles experienced can be verified. I prepare UGA92 that is optimal for E60 and started try out the product. Nothing dramatic besides that one expect could be observed even though I went over to hexamine prepared glycol and V-power instead of unleaded 95. I gave up the experiments but I had to go a turn to North-coping first - this was in March. So I drove to the gas station (with E60 in the tank), filled up 10 liters E85 (E75), douse T66 as prescribed and began my journey to Beijing (a nick name for this city). Nothing unusual was observed during the tour. It was pretty cold, about -16 degrees Celsius all the way. The chores in this city proceeded as planned and soon it was time to go home again. When I started approaching Motala (my hometown), I saw to my surprise that I had fuel left even though the tank was almost empty before I started this trip. At 11 liters I got 19 mil. It is a consumption around 0.6 l/mil, which is less than with gasoline and yet it was E65 and winter chill! Then it struck me that Charles probably had right - there does exist an additive that (if done properly) produces miraculous consumption savings... I spent many weeks at home in the lab to recreate this phenomenon, did glycol mixtures (with ether), tested with different ethanol concentrations, measured and documented. Sometimes I succeeded and fuel consumption fell significantly, but there was something wrong here - it could not be repeated. How much I mixing and tricking, I yet failure to understand what was going on. This had also Charles complained, ”from time to time drinks the car like when running on E85”. Then a beautiful day in the spring I finally understood what this whole is about - as usual it's all about electronics. What happened was that I (and Charles) successfully the trick, to fool our ECU's. You driving a car at a fuel with specific energy content, then you fill the tank and suddenly has the content been changed. The ECU still believes that the fuel is energy rich and scrimps. The result is that fuel consumption decreases. It does not take much, since a change in a single filling-occasion trigger the ECU to react more than to seem necessary. There did not appear to matter which direction it goes. For example, one can fill petrol in E85 and the result is also a marked decrease in consumption. If one stops the car, waiting and then starts again so will the magic ceases. One usually get only one chance then will the ECU learn and thus adjusts itself. When I went to the famous trip to North-coping - I parked the car, so then it would not consume less on the way home. The reason to this took many months of testing and hard work to figure out. Now I have come to clarity and it's not really just about tricking the ECU, no - it's actually about a... (if you'll excuse me, but the word ”super-additive” would fit well here). It involves ethylene glycol that is adapted and the additive T66 and acetone. This constellation characteristic is such a species one hitherto only could dream about. I myself find it hard to grasp and now I also understand Charles perplexity. It should not be possible but the consumption reduction not only arises when using fuels under E85, but also when using pure E85, which not can be correct either. A strange peculiarity is that cool only seems to be a benefit in this context. Anyway, I will sooner or later let somebody to investigate this more accurate - an outside part.
What I learned from this is that there is capacity to utilize E85 better and it does not mean that one have to give up anything. After this insight into what my glycol additives are capable to and electronics in modern cars so began experiments with lambda control or lambda manipulation. Short and sweet strangles one simply the fuel supply when the engine is warm. This promotes fuel savings and called lean operation which only can be applied when using ethanol. The ulterior motive is that the dynamic the lambda manipulating give rise to also trigging great achievements - and there is evidence that this occurs.
Is this a patentable invention?
NAMAG+OC; method for optimizing ethanol fuels (pdf-warning)
There are several factors which I have come to realize during this period that I did not know before. That IPA had a temperature threshold was quite clear but that IPA effectively destroys the effect of a glycol additive is a new experience. For that reason I removed ISO+. IPA's presence in AXg-additives (that containing glycol) must be reassessed. I gratefully accept tips and advice of those who have attempted to use my gasoline additives. For E85 I have a pretty good track but in terms of pure petrol and diesel so it is a bit scant. Alcohol also seems disturbing to some petroleum additives but what I know works Di66 still. Speaking of Di66 so have I also tried using blue glycol in AG+ instead of G+. The arrangement must be revamped so that MCO20 can be introduced into T66 and acetone instead is included in glycol. V-Power has to be added individually - this petrol sort flocks MCO20 unlike conventional gasoline. From what I came up with after a few hastily undertake trials was that it works but it is short-acting.
AT2 & AG+
- the result is an optimally functioning ethanol converted car. The advantage
of a mix of ethanol/gasoline is that the content is permanent year round
- particularly in the winter will it be especially favorable.
- the result is an optimally functioning ethanol converted car. The advantage of a mix of ethanol/gasoline is that the content is permanent year round - particularly in the winter will it be especially favorable.
At the eleventh hour has it emerged that even the choke resistance R10 may cause brain hemorrhage, despite its running time only is 5 sec. I had certainly not imagined that and the value have for a quite long time been 820 ohms (if the pull-up is 2k) - and thus is too low. During tests conducted with Lmd Pex Tce cause the low value of R10 problems with low idle. In fact, the fuel system is very sensitive to mismatches when one trim an LPT so that's the reason I've had to change the document for them both: CSD and CSC. I have done this without being noticed in version quotations because it does not necessarily mean that it leads to the same problem for all car models, but a higher resistance is always preferred. 1k5 has proven to work well - a cold start was made at 0 degrees Celsius with E85 and it was right on the border the car started on the first , so it 'll probably be classified as a more appropriate value.
- the result is E15 - nice gasoline consisting of 15% alcohol, which then can be categorized as a substitute for alkylate...
- It looks promising!
|Report 32 (2013-02-16):
A long time has now passed since my last report and it's about time we update us. Life strutting on at old footprints and I have not so much new to show about fuels. My everyday life might have been a little brighter given that Com Hem has arisen from evil, again.
Well, this telecom company did not give up so easily, they chose to sue me! I not counted with that. First, I have to deny constantly recurring invoices during a year, later one have to deliver defense after defense before it comes time for negotiations. If I lose will it be expensive but I know at least that I always maintained the truth. The phone salesman from Com Hem fableses and promised the Moon, later it turned out that she called from a call-center. Had I known this I would have hung up immediately, but said is done. It is strange that Com Hem and Sergel Inkasso for years refuses to release a customer. One can wonder how long this will last.
The new spirit burner as I have talked about EHB has now been tested long enough and soon I hope to set up a new page about this creation. Last fall I came into contact with something as unusual as boric acid. The reason was that I helped a small company with a problem which involved a special fuel. Boric acid can be made of borax and hydrochloric acid and is a well known constituent of various fuel additives. It dissolves readily in alcohol and can be blended in E85. I have previously used oxalic acid in Di66-additive and current the boric acid should it also result in a highly efficient cleaning (compare with citric acid in the coffee maker). On the Tube can one study boric acid dissolved in methanol for those who are curious. I've tried with boric acid in the tank, but nothing extraordinary occurred.
A certain person told me that one can use an acetone additive including glycol, in a mixed fuel consisting of one part gasoline (preferably V-Power) and two parts E85. The result is a powerful car that also uses less fuel - lower or same consumption of gasoline. The car then goes like a rocket so that the neighbors drop there chins roughly. I may not have understood this fully, but that I closest can relate to is one of my fuel additives. It is called UGA and is somewhat fascinating. One fills two-one (60% E85) and dispenses 0.4% of the total amount of fuel; the result is that the car can run without anything has been done with it. It runs as if it were pure gasoline in the tank, do not ask me why. I worked with UGA for one/some years ago and I remember my own surprise, but then I used 95 octane's not V-Power. Now that I know that it makes a difference with this high-octane gasoline in E85, can I imagine an even better result than this, along with UGA. It'll be an interesting exercise later this spring, but that it should be able to compete with our ”person” claim is probably not so easy. It's fun to know what V-Power consists of because it does not smell much petrol about it. The datasheet says gasoline, naphtha with a low boiling point and in addition several ether- oxygenates type MTBE, ETBE, DIPE, etc. V-Power (and other high-octane gasoline) thus contains Ether, which is a particularly favorable fuel in internal combustion engines - volatile, flammable and high octane. Nowadays contain V-Power (Swedish) also 5% ethanol, which I think is somewhat strange. Speaking of my additions, it seems that Vitamin Well have switched to a new bottle and if so, I have a part to stand in.
IPA (isopropyl alcohol)
HAMLET and the research work I put into this cancer cure was not directly informative. My strategy has been to (try to) contact the researcher and the instances that should possess knowledge, but even though I sent quite a lot of emails have I not become wiser. I could just as easily been talked to a wall. The exception is L Morozova who gave me some info regarding its use or rather non-use - thanks anyway. Contact has been made with the Cancer Society, the HAMLET group at LU, TLV and MPA. The only people who seem to know anything about HAMLET is the researchers at Lund and me. Despite this miracle cure have they apparently totally failed with the marketing. Treatment with HAMLET through medication or otherwise does not exist in the Swedish health care (yet), so is it or that bad it is. My rational mind says that HAMLET should always be used for a cancer treatment. The fact that it does not make me confused or I've missed something important here... My bet is, as I said poor but has nevertheless resulted in a text file (in Swedish). There one can study all email traffic that preceded.
|Report 31 (2012-10-21):
Hey, it's been a while since last time. I have in the autumn been quite prolific and have not had time to write any reports. The problem is that it is currently going on some development around some projects, so the lack of relevant knowledge/facts makes it difficult to say anything sensible.
The projects include a new type of liquor heater (EHB) that I now are evaluating, which has been going on for a few months and it works pretty decently (so far). So if nothing unexpected happen will it soon pops up on the site. SSC - you know the circuit that in a simple and clever way lurks the temperature sensor (the one that sits on the engine block) - in other words, a variation on a cold start resistance for E85, which I baptized to Smart Sensor Circuit. The same thing there: SSC has not been possible to determine just yet because it's not winter yet - but I guess it will be? Concerning HAMLET is I in the process of some research and something worth reading will show up, but at present it is almost impossible to say what.
From B-1 to B-2
Miracle cure a la glycol etcetera
|Report 30 (2012-08-16):
With the risk of being perceived as unconventional I take the liberty to publish some material one not usually expect in here, but one can always hope that there will emerge some synergy effects :)
Mars - the red planet
I find it interesting that NASA regularly sends spacecraft to various planets but are unsure about the reports really is true? I actually think that humans have visited the Moon and even landing on Mars and Venus with various widgets but as I said; unsure if it have taken place after the premises it so to speak have been published.
I do not think they visit the moon with the technology that was available 1969. NASA did this feat five times without that any serious technical error occurred during the landing and the take-off. If one compare the amount of fuel that was required to remove themselves from the earth seems it unreasonable that with a relatively small craft both land and take off from the Moon, but everything went smoothly, however there arose errors in the cameras that were used from time to time - usually when something important was about to be photographed.
In fact, just the photography has been a dilemma from Mercury to the latest spaceflight. The first time they came to Mars and was about to photograph its surface from space with the probe Mariner 9, so was it not possible because the planet was enveloped in a sandstorm - a global sandstorm - it happened again in 2001 and was photographed with the Hubble Space Telescope. Scientists do not know how this is possible considering that the atmospheric density only is a fraction of that on Earth. The gravity on Mars is much smaller than on Earth when the planet is about half of Earth's size. Despite this is the land area the same as the Earth's land area.
Other photographs from Hubble show that Mars houses both bluish atmosphere and clouds. This talks it only little about - it feels like clouds on Mars sky not can be relevant, but there it is. Even dense clouds and fog have been observed from orbiters around the planet.
The first photographs taken by the Viking Lander confirmed a clear blue sky - future pictures show a reddish sky. These pictures looks suspicious because the landscape seems to be sterile and dead, thereto is the red shade obvious, well almost artificial unnatural.
One gets evidence for this when the images are balanced with Photoshop - the sky turn blue and the scenery gets a realistic expression. Even the black parts or the frame that surrounds the pictures have not managed to avoid being exposed from the red-applied paint effect. Just the fact that the black areas/edges are brownish proves that the entire image has been distorted before it has being released into the public spotlight. This is not only one image, it is many. So the conclusion to be drawn is that NASA wants that it shall be red on Mars. It is only clouds and the polar regions which are white, the rest of Mars is red!
The encircled is the atmosphere
When looking at the pictures from the Hubble Space Telescope we see hints of dark brown and green (watch the images from the Hubble above). One may wonder why NASA does not edit these pictures? Even a bluish atmosphere is visible as the one we have here on earth. A blue color indicates either oxygen or nitrogen or both - these elements creates a bluish atmosphere. When in contrast, a probe take pictures on March while it is in an orbit, one never see a shred of either blue or a cloudy sky.
The close-ups of March surface that was taken with equipments from MSSS are all black and white, although the images strongly reminiscent of vegetation. NASA and MSSS have therefore refrained from using color pictures on these interesting surface textures (at this alien planet), which are similar to trees or shrubs and which cast shadows over the landscape. It is noteworthy, as an orbiter not need to link the color data from a ground-placed source.
Even Arthur C. Clarke questioned to what this really is about, but he got no comprehensive answer. Instead responded NASA with a repetition, i.e. a new photograph of the site (the left black and white picture above) - which then showed a barren reddish desert landscape again. Several researchers have studied the detailed images from MGS and argued that it is sufficient proof for (at least) vegetation on Mars, but NASA always knows best and dismisses these assumptions without further notice. Some also claim they can discern herds of earth-like animals on the Mars surface.
These astoundingly ground structures are located in adjacent of the polar regions, but it has never hit anyone (at NASA) that it is exactly there they should put the resources, if the search for life is the point. No, instead they focus every expedition onto stone deserts around the Mars equator, which mostly can be compared with Sahara or the Gibson Desert in Australia.
Pictures taken on Mars are generally unnatural or poorly colored - this should be a good view?
One can now rest assured that the blunders by the clumsy red-imposed images are corrected by NASA. It would be remarkable if one could balance images from Curiosity so that the sky turns blue again - there is probably no risk. We simply have to realize that nothing beyond what we've already seen will ever appear and that other landing areas than inanimate Mars deserts never become relevant to land on - even in the future.
|Report 29 (2012-07-29):
I had an aha experience recently when reading about users of E85 that has been forced to change fuel pumps on their ethanol converted cars. Have previously attempted to obtain information about what this ”opening time reduction” as my fuel additive causes, depends on? Now it seems that it is me who found the answer... Previous advice has touched the viscosity and the temperature of the fuel, but by practical experiments have I been able to exclude viscosity. Have also noticed that the opening time varies with the outdoor temperature (read; the temperature of the fuel). Is it hot outside will a short pulse extension be enough but if it cold, then one have to add more pulse time. These variations of the pulse duration / opening time does not affect the fuel consumption but can affect the engine power if the pulse is set stingily. A certain effect on the fuel consumption can a shorter opening time have when, for example acetone both reduces the opening time and lowering fuel consumption. This is due to an energy rich fuel that also reduces the opening time since the fuel consumption reduces, but not in terms of acetone. The magic with acetone is most likely that the substance influence the flame propagation speed and/or ignition readiness? So, what is it that makes the opening time to be reduced without either the viscosity or the fuel's chemical energy has changed? Ethylene glycol is a typical example of a chemical that not increases (or decreases) either the viscosity or the energy content of the fuel but yet reduce the pulse duration. The same applies to diesel but I'm unsure of lighter fluid... Lighter fluid could be compared with acetone here when it is hydrogenated? The same reasoning is valid for isopropanol, hexamine and copperas.
The answer is then the fuel pump: I guess the fuel pump's condition or speed depends on the fuel's lubricity. If the fuel pump lubricates better so will the speed increase slightly, thus increasing the fuel pressure a bit, but just a bit as the pressure regulator oppose but it is not so precisely and some pressure variations will occur. When the fuel pressure is slightly increased will the opening time / pulse extension decrease (to maintain proper supplied quantity of fuel to the engine). Then arises next little question: Is it possible to achieve good lubrication in an engine that runs on ethanol by dosing glycol in ethanol? Dispense an alcohol in the alcohol as it were...
I also have tried to experiment a lot with both hydrogen and other volatile fuels. For some month ago I built a hydrogen generator according to the HHO's rules. Thus, an electric oxyhydrogen generator which continuously are in operation. It was not the model with two electrodes thrust into a bottle of lye / baking soda, but a little more advanced construction... To increase the efficiency of a hydrogen-hydrolysis plant must the cell voltage kept low, the lower the voltage is the higher get the efficiency. In professional plants is it around 1.8 volts per cell - this achieves a high efficiency of approx 70% but at the same time is the gas production low, which makes that the surface of the cells must be large or very large for a sensible amount of gas shall be possible to produce. My apparatus consisted of four cells - 12/4 is 3 volts per cell. There was an efficiency around 40-45% - not very good but not so shabby either. For those of you who are wondering how to calculate the effects: The input electric power is easy to obtain: P = UxI. However, the effect of the gas that is produced is a little harder to pick out. If one studies the energy-data will one discover that a millilitre (one cubic centimeter) oxyhydrogen gas yields about 7.1 joules. By measuring the oxyhydrogen gas-flow one get the effect, for an example: If one measure up a flow of 2 ml per second will it be 14.2 watts delivered power. This together with the input power gives the efficiency: Pout/Pin. I made this generator of four series-connected Vitamin Well bottles and stainless steel wire from an auto parts store. The only thing that failed was that they shrank a bit when the cells became warm. The power consumption was around 4-5 amps and fed through a relay which was ruled by the headlights. To avoid that the bottles would crumple because of the vacuum, I got to prime a constriction (a bit brass pipe) next to the backflash arrestor which itself consisted of a small vitamin bottle filled with packed brass-wool.
According to the advocates of HHO systems shall the extra electrical output that is taken from the car's generator not lead to higher fuel consumption, when the generator friction losses are quite large and thus overshadows a smaller outlet such as an HHO generator causes. This may be true but how hard I tried I could not find any noticeable improvement or efficiency boost (I've driven hundreds of miles). The bottom line is that it actually became zero or plus or minus zero - i.e. nothing! The whole caboodle was scrapped after that insight/lesson. So it can be...
A completely different idea was to use a jar connected to a vacuum tube and its second terminal via a pipe which is drawn to the bottom of the jar and to the outside - this is the principle of a so-called bubble carburetor. The engine suck bubbles out of a volatile flammable liquid - as an additional fuel supplement. I could found that with gasoline in the jar declined the injection time by 30% (at idle). A bubble-carburetor ”effect” depends on its size or in other words the size of the liquid surface and also on the type of fuel, the more easily-volatile, the greater effect. The gasoline will get cold after a short time in operation which reduces its ability to evaporate; this is due to the vacuum (or rather expansion). I solved the problem to prime an electric 10W air preheater that kept the gasoline lukewarm - a fairly simple design (a power resistor 15 ohms in a tube). Later, I went over to 50/50 gasoline and acetone but then was the heating effect from the air preheater not sufficient. This cooling also creates a lot of condensation on the jar's outer covering. Actually, you should preheat with the exhaust or the cooling water residual heat, but I overlooked this. Acetone is anyway a very gasification willingly substance and does not seem to be affected so much by being cooled a few degrees. The result is that the apparatus facilitates or replaces the enrichment of E85 while the engine has not reached proper operating temperature. It can also reduce fuel consumption, since combustion (during heating) is more effective because of the absence/reduction of ethanol. If one drive long distances one can not see any decrease in consumption - it has I at least found! The apparatus may also reduce the irrigation of the engine oil because it is formed much unburnt residues when an engine is cold, which is then easily slip past the pistons.
The system is totally manual. It would bring a lot to design it with automatic since at least two solenoid valves required to be controlled by some sort of electronic device, in addition to the air preheater on and off function. At a later extension was this apparatus (on the picture) equipped with a switch and an LED for the air preheater. I designed the controls so that one not can open the valve without having been exposed the in-air line (by removing the metal cover). A switch of pull and pressure type mounted I next to the valve so that it is impossible to close the valve without having turned off the air preheater. The whole thing consists of a bubble jar (empty acetone bottle with a reinforcing metal casing). The air first goes through an air filter (actually a fuel filter), then an air preheater and into the jar. Air mixed with gas via the valve through a flashback arrestor into the engine manifold. While driving can one turning off the ballofix-valve by hand if the engine temperature is right - this is hard to forget when the bubbling is quite loudly. It is a surprisingly high rate of bubbling - if one fill the jar too much (little more than half) is the risk that the engine sucks both gas and liquid from it.
|Report 28 (2012-06-16):
Finally Com Hem gave up and turned off my broadband and my old website location (120601). I sent a registered letter to Com Hem as early as July 2011. I wanted to break the conclusion of a phone contract due to misleading advertising which I met with Com Hem a few months earlier - it would not Com Hem. Although I not paid any reminders or new invoices since July 2011 continued Com Hem keeping the broadband open. So I have had free broadband since July 2011 - not a penny have I put out! Of course passed this case to debt collection but then I always have responded objectively to their letters has not Sergel been able to do anything. The set of regulations is saying that if you dispute a debt collection with factual arguments, one should follow good debt collection practice and not driving the requirement to the next instance (bailiff). Furthermore, may the collection agency only submit one demand by case, not a number (here however have the collection agencies several ruses to evade one demand). If you are lucky and can account for a request against the creditor, as I had - then one have the matter settled as a litigation in the district court, which usually result in a settlement.
A new module ACFM to IPE-GS
|Report 27 (2012-04-10):
I wanted to try if the production of ED75 works with E85 of winter quality (E75) or what the difference against ED75 obtained from E85 of summer quality is? The E85 I used was purchased at Preem and it proved to be E75, which is blood pink. For just that sort of E85 becomes the gasoline-part pink (and a transparent ethanol-part when one with water get the components to separate). The consequence is that the remainder change color - the diesel stain pink...
Anyway, was no extraordinary measures taken, it was the same procedure as the previous method - 30% diesel and 5% water of the initial amount E85, plus 0.5% antifreeze (glycol) to speed up the separation (should also have some protective effect in the fuel as it contains corrosion inhibitors).
What happens is that a larger proportion of diesel oil choose to separate. The gasoline content in the diesel is the same which means that even a slightly larger share of gasoline can be separated, however will the bulk of the gasoline remains still in the spirit and diesel part. It thus becomes more gasoline in ED75 than ED75 that is produced by using E85. In fact will the proportions alter several percentage and the result is this:
Even the ethanol content is changing, in addition increase the gasoline content while the diesel content decreases. Only the water content is constant. So when preparing ED75 with E75, one get ED71 with less content diesel in.
For a year ago I bought a new catalyst from Biltema. It turned out to work without any problems even though it was smaller than the original catalyst. Now when it's been a year was it time for inspection again. I started driving with the additive ISO laced with iron oleate a few weeks ago. This was the result:
As usual was the tank filled with pure E85 (not counting my fuel additives). The numbers are very good and quite typical of ethanol converted gasoline cars. One can assume that the original catalyst should work at least ten years beyond reproach, until there is a long way to go yet...
|Report 26 (2012-04-02):
Got a question from ostrobothnia if I had any fuel that can substitute diesel...
I replied that in that case, you probably have to distill E85 and make ED95 of the distillate. The answer I gave feels mediocre, have I that has made both the one and the other no better suggestion? The guys up there had both diesel and gasoline cars just waiting to be saved with cheap alcohol, a la E85.
Today's diesel oil (for general use) is so flexible that it easily can be mixed with E85 and in any proportions. Thus, one can stand and fill in both diesel and E85 in a diesel car and in that way create their own biofuel at its sole discretion and taste.
Since ethanol reminds of gasoline should an ethanol-diesel blend be even better, at least from an environmental perspective. It's probably not all variants of diesel oil that can being mixed with the E85 and if so, ED75 should be an option? However, should the production be made in relatively large volumes and then it's probably not so interesting for ordinary consumers? One should ideally have plenty of extra space and resources before launching.
ED75 is like E85 but for diesels - the calorific value is the same and the proportions gasoline/ethanol and diesel/ethanol is fairly matching.
PS. I've driven quite far now with ISO (T66 and ωFe) - it still works...
|Report 25 (2012-03-27):
A liquid variant of MPG-caps are now in the advent of spirit!
Some issues still remain as some additives not have been fully tested yet.
All samples seem stable at the moment and hopefully they will remain stable?
This novel is an iron preparation that one can impale D66, T66, ISO and D2a with. I call this preparation for omega-Fe or ωFe. It is an iron salt of oleic acid and is miscible in various petroleum products. Thus, a replacement for MCO20 but more difficult to manufacture. No additives have been changed except Ti66 which has been expired. In has came D2a which in principle is the same as A2d though it contains more D66 and less acetone.
I've also adjusted the proportions of ISO and its dosage is now 1% (not 2%). ISO has been optimized and can replace both D66 and T66. Additives with ωFe dosed as before and the concentration of iron (Fe) in the fuel will then approximately be 5-10 ppm. Then it's up to each one to determine the potential profit...
I have not come so far that I can say something about the usefulness of ωFe - it's a brand new invention - so in the future will things likely happens, which in turn leads to changes, or everything works perfect from the start? However, I shall myself drive as much as possible with ω-additive - and so far it's working.
Anyway, so it is pleasing that we now are able to produce our very own MPG-caps/tabs, without having to shell out their hard-earned shekels now when the fuel prices are headed...
Teflon or Slick 50
The fact is that modern oils are better than its predecessor. The latest synthetic engine oils are probably not far off in terms of characteristics like teflon? Despite this, I do not think one can match Teflon, it is devilishly slippery - still... and provides some lubrication the time before the oil has arrived.
I found an old newspaper article in Allt om MC 2/92 a test current slick 50, together with a four-stroke and two-stroke motorcycle - ”especially knew those who did not use Slick 50 that it did not work” (but in Swedish).
To the skeptics' defense is it of course remarkable that teflon can be accumulate on the piston top and then cause an engine failure - is there more detailed information about this? One can assume that teflon makes the most benefit in the valve body, gear-box or cardan-boxes and less benefits in the oil that lubricates the cylinders...
IPE-GS with automatic choke a la ACM
The perpetual motion machine was credited by NASA
|Report 24 (2012-02-21):
It feels like most things involving E85 and fuel additives, etc. is complete, but even though the end seems to have appeared have I still a few projects to tackle.
Currently conducted experiments with a new iron additive - an alternative to MCO20. How it will be judged is almost impossible to predict at this stage...
For a short time ago, I was busy looking for information on oleic acid. Oleic and for example stearic acid is quite conventional carboxylic acids. Oleic acid is also known as omega-9 and represent the lion's share of olive oil. If you search ”oleic acid” on google, you'll notice the headline: ”lysozyme combined with oleic acid kills cancer cells” (but in swedish). This wording made me curious and I chose to read more. The website was a press release from Umeå University. The text was about a professor who has done research about what is colloquially called HAMLET (Human Alpha-lactalbumin Made Lethal to Tumor cells).
Further reading gave: ”One of these properties is that it is proved that it kills all tumor cells as it has been tested on so far” (but in swedish) - dated 2010-09-13. Source
I thought that the information was so startling that I decided to write an article for NewsVoice and to quote what I wrote: ”Imagine yourself in a dream where you walk in a forest, so suddenly shows a magician up, keeps up a bottle and says - my friend this is a panacea that cures all forms of cancer - then would the magician probably have had HAMLET in the bottle”
HAMLET is as I understand; a product of a fatty acid and a protein which is latent in breast milk. Lysozyme is a lipo-protein complex that can be extracted from horses and oleic acid are plentiful in both olive and rapeseed oil.
Such a simple and effective anticancer agent is too good to be true! What one can read about HAMLET is not in the proportionate to what one known at today. In fact I had not the faintest idea that there already existed a miracle cure for cancer until now - 2012! HAMLET was discovered by Catharina Svanborg 1994 - which is a Swedish researcher! Try themselves to find any disadvantage of HAMLET... I have not found anyone, however has other medication emerged from itself with characteristics similar to HAMLET, such as a agent against pneumonia.
This opportunity for detailed study of various chemical products makes it easy to assess their suitability. Many agents, especially additives have been given a ”sham and arc” stamp because they usually only contain various fuel components without any higher purpose, more than to clean and bind moisture. This I can partially sign on, after I have reviewed the contents and later compared to my research on how an additive should be designed.
First out on the pitch is Tripak. I thought it contained a lubricating agent but after reading the safety data sheet, I realized that it only consists of alcohols but also toluene which already is quite common in gasoline.
If this is what Tripak consists of I get a bit disappointed, because I bought a bottle Tripak once and given the price have these alcohols with toluene not so much to offer. What major differences it is - I visited Svensk Vodka once and their demands is that it maximum may deviate ±1%. Yes, it's certainly about product secrets - after all?
A better choice seemed Karb-Inject be - as ÖoB sell. This additive contain white spirit, alcohol and a compound/salt. In fact mentioned naphthalene and trimethylbenzene - which I assume is the constituents of white spirit, which furthermore is hydro treated (as well as lighter fluid is).
The alcohol 2-ethylhexanol have I no experience of but ethanol is not a
good choose here because it should be miscible in white spirit (naphtha).
I think the compound hydrocarbyl amine is octane enhancing (not
explosive as I coiled out of me before)?
Redline sells additives that are quite common in the Swedish trades - but what does it contain?
Begins with SI-1 that is for gasoline. Polyether amine dominate but it also contains white spirits and isooctanol (an alcohol). It is not good to use regular ethanol because it must be miscible in white spirit. Polyetheramine is a relatively common component - Techron consist of it, and it said to be both cleaning at the fuel injectors and power enhancing.
Red Line SI-1 (gasoline):
Unfortunately I have not found any data current SI-Alcohol which is Redline's additive for ethanol and methanol fuels. However, I have information about RL-2 that I'm almost sure of is for diesel.
Red Line RL-2 (diesel):
Interestingly, the last four ingredients (except rosin) are probably derivatives of white spirit on the top. If this applies to naphthalene is difficult to answer as it apparently is very precise current the content? Tall oil have I some experience of and one makes wood tar from it. The more volatile variant is diluted in diesel, these days. Green soap and glue are other products of tall oil. It is viscous and messy, but soluble in principle all solvents except aqueous - in which it is totally insoluble. The element rosin (resin) come from tall oil. RL-2 is the additive that is most in line with what I have come up with. Diesel and naphtha is lubricating and opening time-reducing - compare RL-2 with D66! However; D66 is for gasoline and E85 - not diesel.
|Report 23 (2011-12-06):
What a winter! In this writing-stage is it still bare ground and quite warm outside, which should mean that we can experience another mild one?
With the warm weather in the ulterior motive, I decided that through Blocket looking up some fresh summer tires for my Xantia. Both rims and tires were basically worn out so any excuse escaping these chores were hard to come up. Besides, I always buy summer tires in the fall and possibly winter tires in the spring. Saw some nice summer tires plus A-rims down in Bottnaryd and decided to bat. Once there, it appeared that there was 14-inch tires, not 15 inches as it really should be on my car - it is 15 inches by default. Impulsive as I am, I bought them along with airy assurances that; oh, it will probably be just as good... Suspicious as I sometimes is, I stopped at the nearest gas station and changed all tires to assure me that I had not bought a pig in a poke. Sensed concern, but actually fit the wheels over the brake calipers. Filled air, gave full steering lock, swung, hoisted up and down, checked everything and the car was a little lower, namely a half inch. Drove then on the highway back to Bottnaryd, because this purchase probably was a bit premature... Meanwhile the trip went on found I that the comfort was better - quieter operation, balanced tires and softer shock absorption. Come to Bottnaryd again but when nothing was bad turned I back to Jonkoping again. I had already measured the distance - it was 21 km. Reset the counter - then when I arrived at Jonkoping again showed it 21.5 km. What! not much difference! The fact was that this purchase was perfect. Four almost new rims and tires for the price of fifteen hundred sek and everything is okay. The days are few when everything goes right and this was one such day. One has to thank!
Have been fairly low at the E85-front but have worked a little with E-spirit. I'm sick of this naphtha surplus and began experimenting with a slightly more lavish version of E-spirit, which I now refer to as E-spirit+. The principle is to replace some of the naphtha with water and then adding methylated spirits so that the water content not is changed. The result was an e-spirit with a small amount of naphtha. In other words; almost like methylated spirits with a little water in, but cheaper.
Have followed Andrea Rossi and his E-cat a bit... The criticism has been fierce but the project seems to live. It's quite fun to see the reaction when a figure like AR pop up in the parlor of the research sphere. An inventor with no thought of to fit in and directly beginning to challenge established physics with the only goal to secure a patent. This about patent can be tricky; not only that others might steal the idea - the Patent Office may also start being uncooperative if they consider that the physical laws behind the idea is not up to scratch. Yes, it will be interesting to see if it is nickel one have to burn in the future. It should then mean revolution with a large R.
Well, I have no more to say so far. So Merry Christmas then!
|Report 22 (2011-10-30):
The inspiration is bad this time at the year when it is time to be frozen and wrapped into the swedish winter darkness. It's not like in the spring when one is located under the car, screws to make it drivable for another season, then the neighbor chime in - is it the spring-fever that starting scepter?
However, have I quite extensively burned E-spirits the past few weeks - because the landlord wants to keep the heating costs at a low-level - I guess? I took the opportunity to make a large quantity of E-spirit through to prepare two 20 litre cans. The result was 20 litre E-spirits based on diesel - the cheapest option. After I start to burn it intensely revealed a problem that I previously overlooked. Is the naphtha soot-prone (like diesel and lighter fluid is) becomes the spirit burner clogged. After a period of fiery E-spirit was my spirit burner so packed with unburned diesel fuel that the smoke that was formed when the burner peter out was rather unpleasant. In addition, blocked the diesel the small holes on the burner so it created pressure with subsequent puffs, which sometimes caused that the liquor splashed out from the burner. After some testing and pondering concluded I that one should use lamp oil instead of diesel / lighter fluid. However, all this news about E-spirit can be found under the ”E-spirit with the naphtha-method”.
So now I had just over 15 litre of e-spirit over to no avail - what to do? Why not drive the car with half E-spirit and half E85? Said and done: the car was fueled and eventually I drove around with about a third part E-spirit in my fuel tank. That means about 7% water and 3% diesel mixed with E85 of summer quality. A new experience richer as they say... A heated car engine can be driven on most things, but what happens when the car was allowed to stand still for a week or two and then one day - using the car with this fuel? First, the car is somewhat difficult to start (diesel not facilitates apparently). Although I have automatic choke (IPE-GS) I needed to make three attempts to start. And then needs more pulse length when the fuel is less energy-rich than pure E85. I had to turn up the pot a few snap (+10% approx). The car feels weaker and need more throttle, in addition it uses more fuel. Some knock tendencies could I not notice but I guess the automatic took care of it nicely? A lot of trouble in other words - but it will go.
|Report 21 (2011-09-28):
The last time have I worked a lot with IPE-GP, i.e. the pulse extender that is identical to IPE-GS - except that the circuit and the control panel are integrated. This means that you can place it on the dashboard or maybe put it away in the glove box?
IPE-GP was unfortunately marred by three significant errors. The components in question were C4, D1 and R3. The new version B-1 is also improved when a new module; the ACFM, have been added. This module can also be used with IPE-GS. The module includes an automatic choke and a fuel enrichment feature that activates by the choke. I have now for a month using both the automatic choke and AFE, and it works well. Should be interesting to see if the choke works equally well in the winter cold? In theory, affect the type of lead acid battery the choke feature. For it to work must the battery voltage drops below 1V.
Has also begun to burn E-spirit and of course it will be warm and comfortable, though the autumn darkness and the cold more and more hooks its grip. If truth be told, I usually do not pay attention to fuel developments and such things during the winter. Matter get stand and walk until warmer times ahead.
And now for something completely different
|Report 20 (2011-08-25):
A certain time has elapsed since I wrote something here but now I think it's time to sum up some interesting events. Filled up a few litres of E85 at Eksjo for a short time ago. It turned out that it was yellow instead of pink/reddish, heum...
The minimal pulse extender circuit IPE-S has been subjected to a less acid test. Three new modules have been added - an RCW module and two AFE modules. With automatic choke and fuel enrichment (when the engine is cold) start it soon resemble something? Although a serious faulty onto the construction appeared when I measured the voltage a bit accurate than normal. The resulting voltage does not dim out at all - it exists! And the peak voltage also determines the supply voltage! Fortunately is IPE-S fairly voltage-resistant - LM393 stands up to fed with 36V (simple supply) which is pretty high for being an op. It is sad that such an obvious error/failure have not received attention until now, but what can I say, better late than never? But now everything is resolved and hopefully is the circuit greatly improved and with the new modules too.
Giso has expired! I have run several mils and dosed it here and there but can not become wiser. Sometimes it works, sometimes not... So because of the unpredictable behavior must Giso away from the range until further notice.
Another remarkable observation concerns Di66. This additive has usually be stratified according to the following layer sequence: Alcohol (with MCO20) was at the bottom and at the top lay the naphtha. Nowadays is the naphtha on the bottom while the alcohol is on the top. Explain that if you can...
I tried to produce hydrogen by allowing caustic soda react with aluminum, specifically aluminum wire (from scrapped power lines). Stoppers one a PET bottle with these al-rods, fill with water and with a little caustic soda/drain cleaner into it, begin a hydrogen-generating. Through a wash bottle one can achieve a significant hydrogen flow, which could then be fed into the car's intake. After some calculations I concluded that a significant gas generation only can replace one or two percent of the car's energy consumption. To fully meet the car's regular gasoline or ethanol fuel; required to corrode up pounds of aluminum per miles! In addition formed amounts of Bayerite (substance in Bauxite) that must be filtered out. There is also a risk that the aluminum oxidizes, which reduces its reaction readiness.
Should one invest in hydrogen is it probably best to do it properly - like Bob Lazar... This fellow is best known for having inspected a flying saucer, but obviously he (also) mastering a lot about hydrogen. Bob uses a solar collector to extract hydrogen from water through electrolysis, which besides is very easy to make oneself. The collected hydrogen is passed through the tap water pressure into a car prepared with gas tubes. This is in fact an impossible enterprise when only small amounts of hydrogen gas can be stored. One could raise the pressure to hundreds of bar and then cooling down the tubes, but to what gain? And would such a tube get broken should the consequences be spectacular. No - Bob have circumvented this problem elegantly! The tubes (which is about four to six parallel) contains 6Li2H (lithium deuteride) which is a compound of the isotopes lithium-6 and hydrogen-2 (deuterium/heavy hydrogen). In simplified form: When hydrogen is mixed with lithium metal react it to lithium hydride (LiH). Exactly how this can be explained purely chemical have I no knowledge about. Nevertheless is 6Li2H or 6LiD in a container a remarkable efficient hydrogen gas accumulator. To get the lithium hydride to release this stored hydrogen, required only that it is heated to a certain temperature - otherwise is the tubes completely fireproof and can not cause any harm/risk to the public, even if they breakage. Some tubes are sufficient to replace a gas tank, but if the hydrogen runs out is it easy to switches over to the liquid fuel again. Bob said it took eight hours for the solar collector to fill the tubes - but on the other hand, there is plenty of solar radiation in New Mexico, where BL is living nowadays. 6LiD can be made by to electrolyzed heavy water and then allow the released hydrogen to react with lithium-6 at high pressure and temperature - known as hydrogenation. Unfortunately you can not obtain 6LiD because it is classified as a material for thermonuclear weapons, but it is legal to manufacture it for your own needs.
|Report 19 (2011-07-17):
Intends now to change T100 and Ti50 against T66 and Ti66. Some think it has become cluttered with all the changes, and unfortunately I can not avoid this inconvenience. It may take several days to ascertain how an additive behavior and one can never be sure what will happen until the test is complete - for example, Ti66 is untested so far. Other untested additives are Giso and ISO (for both petrol and diesel). Giso is tested, but with a slightly different percentage breakdown. On the other hand, I have no obligations to operate properly in the matter - in terms of whether a product will work or not.
Given how expensive fuel additives are to buying should this type of research be a benefit for common man, because the cost in comparison with the consumption when it's about my fuel additives - is negligible in comparison with those found in shops.
And when we talk about fuel additives in the trade I actually tried to drive with Tripak in my car (E85) and could not find any opening time reduction at all, or notice any other effects, although the dosage was for ”racing”. This should not be a problem then Tripak is designed for gasoline (I think), but it seems (the smell) to contain IPA, which in fact plays matter when it comes to gasoline because it's opening time-reducing, freezing point lowering and water absorption - as well as c-sprite. In addition to IPA contains probably Tripak some kind of two-stroke oil, but it's just a theory. As with the derivation of my research has Tripak; neither the right dosage nor the right set of chemicals to function optimally with E85.
|Report 18 (2011-07-13):
Has recently worked copiously with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), and the new long-acting fuel additives. Not long ago I discovered IPA and its virtues. This alcohol (not ketone) is from all angles better than acetone - it is such information that came now but should have come earlier... Anyway, have I got time to testing and evaluate some new additives, such as ISO and Giso. Lighter fluid has proved to be the most long-acting for E85 while G14a has proved to be short-acting - it is about hours, but with lighter fluid, for days. Whether UGA is a short-or long-acting additive remains to be tested, but for now it is located in the short slot.
New products is:
In addition to this work, have I been looking for errors in the HTML code. It seems that the old fashioned HTML code no longer is acceptable - and if so: I have some problems... but as it seems at this moment - it is still working (for some reason).
This cleaning method has been used for quite some time now and it seems to give a little extra life to old engine oil... Since I diligently have poured in a little dash of Teflon now and then - think it should do some good? Approximately ten purifications have been carried out and in this situation, it would be interesting to see how much shit that really stuck in the ”HEPA” filter (from Biltema besides).
I backwash the filter with lighter fluid and that who came out did not look dirty and why would it do that? Yeah, shame it would be if it circulates a lot of visible dirt particles in the oil, right? No, this requires a better analysis; I let the filtrate passed through a standard A4 printer paper (typing paper for those who remember it). This type of paper is as far as I know, harder to capture small shit, than a coffee filter is. Sure, it took time but finally had everything passed a single piece of paper and this was the result:
And it got stuck a few things, but small it is. The dirt is visible only as a discoloration and this also depends on the soot particles from the oil. But there was also a small amount of fine powder which was located in the folds on the paper, in addition were a minor part magnetically. Even some of the magnetic went also to be found on the magnets that are mounted in the middle of my HEPA filter.
My conclusion is that the HEPA method is useful when the method removes small metal particles.
|Report 17 (2011-06-06):
About the perpetual-motion machine
Recently switched oil in a Hyundai Getz and took the oil filter with me home - a filter which was equipped with neodymium magnets and thus should be a bit cleverer than regular oil filter to collect small ferrous debris. I backwashed the filter with white spirit and gathered all particles on a stainless steel bowl, where I also spent some neodymium magnets. It turned out that the most of the debris not was magnetic, but that who were magnetic was all small.
Whether the magnets are doing their job or not is still somewhat iffy.
Refuel cheap with E-spirits?
The latest project is to convert E85 to methylated spirits, yes you heard right. If you go with the thought to heat your homes, but with a cheap fuel - is E85 appealing. Autumn and winter can be a real nuisance so it's probably better to prepare in time? E85 contains almost 85% methylated spirits, but when it burns with sooty flame (gasoline) puts the stop to that thought, but if you can separate the gasoline on a cheap and easy way so should anyone be able to take advantage of this ethanol fuel. Given the perpetual-motion machine and cold fusion, one may wonder if there is any future for fuels which is based on electron jumps - at all?
A group that uses alcohol heaters are boat owners, but many go to LPG later due to the ”splash mess”. The calorific value of methylated spirits is about 30 kJ/g and is two thirds smaller than kerosene which is around 46 kJ/g - same as LPG. Although the calorific value of ethanol is half of the kerosene is the cost of kerosene about twice against methylated spirit. The calorific value of E85 is 32 kJ/g (summer) and 34 kJ/g (winter), it is compared with gasoline; 0.68 and 0.72.
|Report 16 (2011-06-04):
Fairly big changes are now underway about the existing G19a and Di66.
To begin with: G19a has expired and G14a enter the stage AGAIN!
There is too little acetone in G19a. It is necessary to have a bigger dose when it is summer and hot outside - otherwise it evaporates away. Then during the winter (when it's colder) one can have a small surplus. For it to be so, must G14a take the throne again, for this constellation has never failed me. Thus, also have all the gloomy readings I got - start to point upwards.
I now make some abrasion tests to be able to find any deficiencies that were bypassed last year. It seems that most of the problems that appeared in the last year have been solved? Changes also apply to the operation of Di66.
In addition to an adjustment of the filling agent (elimination of water) in Di66 I made some time ago, have I also noticed that Di66 can not be dosed while G14a or with any other additive that contains acetone, or for that matter even (blue) glycol. If one only dispenses G14a, and then pour in Di66 will these be mixed in the bottom of the filler tube. At these high concentrations, acetone reacts directly with the components in Di66 and the additives effect will cease or decrease significantly - I now know that (better late then never as we say). To avoid this happening you have to dose one of these two, before the actual refueling - after the refueling one put in the other and no reaction can occur because the first is diluted.
I'm also going to develop a new unitary additive that will contain acetone, glycol and D66 - all in one. This should be done as a clear liquid (preferably not phase-separated as Di66), or nor based on copperas. Something for the slightly more conservative and comfortable perhaps? Phase-separated additives have an advantage; they stratifies if they are unused, which means that the naphtha portion at the top - that not easy allow to vaporize, preventing the volatile components to leave.
Another highly interesting project waiting to be spread in the wide world. Especially boaters can take advantage of this new. Coming soon...
|Report 15 (2011-05-24):
Have recently taken hold in the unfinished IPE-circuits which I now believe is a closed chapter. Swisch... it was sweaty to test and build new pages but the result was pretty neat. IPEFF, IPE-DS and LISU is out-going and in came IPE-GS, IPE-GP and IPE-S. Did a test of IPE-GS with full automatic and it worked in principle directly without anything fancy happen. IPE-S is a fun design, despite its simple construction and small size seems it to work without any problems. Speaking of the pulse-extenders, so it's likely that newer cars have this feature built-in (LTFT), so I guess that this type of circuits soon will be a thing of the past. Waiting anxiously at Biltema will begin selling its own pulse-extender (made in China) for one like that, 49kr per piece...
New data for Di66!
Di66 - that I've driven my car in for almost a year without anything bad about the engine has gone to state - have been subjected to an audit. The mysterious problem that arose last year when the additive suddenly stopped working after a visit to Qstar, may have been resolved? I know I bought methylated spirit from Biltema in September at some point and that the methylated spirit contained water, which it should do. Though, the methylated spirit I bought previously and which I tried out Di66 - was essentially anhydrous. Maybe they took the spirit from Agroetanol in Norrkoping, it is 100% free from water? It has been shown that if the filling liquid (in Di66) not is an anhydrous alcohol disappear the effect of this eminent creation. Shoot too! But this is things that happen... One may well hope that it is methylated spirit that is the answer and not the temperature the additives are sensitive to? No more water in Di66 then! By the way, one can make Di66 and get a homogeneous solution that is not layered, but it is less D66 in this but the need for D66 is somewhat diffuse, so it should not make much difference.
Speaking of perpetual-motion machine - how long will it last without that the hoax is revealed? The thingy is just too good to be true. I mean, if this works will the entire energy community radically be reformed.
|Report 14 (2011-04-25):
What a fantastic weather! The heavy winter is past and glorious times are
As one can see, is CO and HC under or adjacent to the limit, while CO2500 is
The catalyst from Biltema seems to work fine because I have not noticed any
weakness trends or similar symptoms, because of high stream resistance. It
remains to be seen how long it will be holding?
E85 (with DiG).
Well well, the figures speak for themselves - further comment seems
First something about motor oil dialysis, that is what I call the HEPA
method but that also could be called; poor man COT system. This page is
updated and the proposal to use calcium chloride (active ingredient in a dry
ball) in a HEPA filter, I took away. This salt could interfere with water in
the oil and then initate a lot of trouble. It goes away! Was actually
running the HEPA method myself and scored two dialysis in a row, fine oil
it should be - as Yoda had said!
I also had the car with DiG in the fuel and let it stand still for nearly
one month during December 2010 and then take the car into service and
nothing unusual occurred, despite the chilly weather.
It also seems that my glycol additives are sensitive to cold, witch I did not conceded in the last report, but so appears it therefore to be, however! Will it be colder than 40 degrees Fahrenheit or even up to 50 degrees decreases the effects of DiG. If the same is true for G+ with D66, I can not comment on when I have not tried G19a with G+ at the cold yet.
In addition, I have noticed with the naked eye through a phase separation test, that one can distinguish two main types of E85 fuel. Do one for example add one part water to one part E85 will usually the gasoline (which floats above) assume a yellowish color, while alcohol/water component adopts the reddish/pink color. This is not a consistent rule! Sometimes will the gasoline part (still floating on top) become reddish and the liquor/water part - gray (and eventually transparent). OKQ8 here in Motala holds the latter version and also a few other gas stations in the area. The E85, which houses a red-colored gasoline part are usually best, both as a fuel and as a carrier for all the fuel additives I am the creator for.
Perpetual motion machine?
|Report 13 (2011-02-12):
A long time has now passed since I reported anything here. Actually, nothing new has been created but there are threads that are waiting to be sorted out.
Winter came early and the chill with it. Since I do not have snow tires has the car most stood still, but some running has happens after all. It is a bit odd that in the case of private cars in Sweden. It bitching a lot about when the snow tires being on or off, while both buses and trucks allowed to drive on summer tires all year round. These heavy vehicles are synonymous with long braking distance but do not have to use snow tires - where is the logic?
The riddle of what happened the last in October last year is partly about to be solved. The absorption tests I used previously was for to measure the amount of the water content in an arbitrary E85. Now this is not true anymore. It has emerged that certain ethanol fuels can absorb large amounts of water, far above what is reasonable when compared with a normal ethanol and gasoline blend. The absorption capacity can also be very low without that it contains an excess of water. The both variants have been found at a relatively short period of time. The one with the unusually low ability to absorb water is understood the Qstar test - the last in October 2010, while the high-absorbency was refueled in OKQ8 January 14 this year.
Both of these fuel samples exhibit extreme characteristics and it also appears that the fuel additive called DiG (as I currently hold on to test) not at all contribute to the improvements that was observed earlier - until I filled up at OKQ8 again on January 6! Suddenly DiG function again. Not fully, but clearly better. This straightened out some really crooked question marks.
The reason why DiG not was working had nothing to do with:
However, it shall be pointed out that I not have been examined the engine inside and therefore not can say about how DiG affect mechanical a four stroke internal combustion engine of the Otto type.
So this seems like a tremendous relief! Now I know that DiG, acetone, glycol (G19a) etc. are functioning fully, except when the fuel not is normal.
What this bad in the fuel is about is still shrouded in mystery. Could it be any other alcohol involved, or is it a salt or sulfur? Yes, these question have I not found any answer for but maybe it clears eventually?
In connection when the absorption test was questionable, I developed a new excel file by using a hydrometer for measures the density of ethanol and based on this data calculates any water and oxygenates in the fuel. It should be said that I got some outside help before I started the density measurements. Sometimes it may be worthwhile to juggle a problem with someone else for to be ready to see the deficiencies of one's reasoning.
The lesson here should be that the quality of the E85 really is diverse. Running on E85 is not as filling up gas. One can therefore expect that E85 and its properties can vary wildly, depending on where and when you filling up.
Is the cat dead or is it function?
Is an entirely different issue that has been purposely protracted the last time. When I questioned whether a fuel preheater to E85 does not improve anything or contribute to an increase efficiency, so crystallized the debate about what happens to the exhaust from an Otto engine (for petrol) that running on E85?
So far I have not have got the clarity of whether the catalyst functions (ignite) when the ethanol content in the fuel exceeds a certain level, but when my catalytic converter is removed and it is almost time for inspection - so should the answer soon become unequivocally...
|Report 12 (2010-10-30):
For those who intend to use blue glycol need to think of some rules! It is just as easy to drive with blue glycol in G19a with D66 or with the red glycol as with G+ but if you choose to use Di66, you can only use blue antifreeze and not anything else - and it must works with MCO20 - it is important to remember! If you are a user of red glycol and wish to move to Di66 (plus G19a based on blue glycol) you have to wash clean the fuel tank by filling up half a tank of pure E85 and run this before Di66 can be dosed.
Many people may worry about the iron sulfate but remember that there is about small quantities involved. It is therefore impossible to see at the fuel, that it contains Di66 or some else of my additives. So we are talking about small doses here, so small that it really should not lead to anything - but it does.
I've looked around what's on about E85 but some place with an equally broad range of solutions similar to what I have done do not exist. Here you can try to build electronic circuits based on readily accessible components - not programmable microprocessors and a lot of knickknacks ... If you want to engage in chemistry, then you can mix and test any additive or why not perform an analysis? Everything in view with a simple operation, combined with optimum performance.
- Now it has happened what I always feared regarding E85. A gas station owner has impale its E85 with 10 per cent water and then sells it as if it were a full ethanol fuel. People go there attracted by the low price and fill their cars with ugly spirit. People then running away and maybe, they find it goes a bit worse than before? But it is not easy to relax this to a high water content in the fuel and how does one have it confirmed, if that were the case?
Fortunately, there are some amateurs who fill the car with E85 frequently and also working to develop various methods by making his own instruments.
If it were so easy that one could get information about water and/or conductivity at the moment somebody fill up the tank, but it's probably too much information to keep track of for a average Swedish? The fuel is supposed to be checked and approved. The fact that the fuel is cheaper does not matter? I mean, here at the Motala area is the price usually equal everywhere but right at that time was the lowest price in Oesterstad - the gas station owner did not know that the fuel was of moderate quality, or? Did the gas station owner known that it was E85 of poor quality and therefore sold it for a lower price? You get what you pay for - as they say...
Anyway, this incident leads to that my own designed water warner WTE85 must be modified. As it is currently designed, interprets it around 10 per cent water of the ethanol contents as an approved fuel and that was never the intention of this design
|Report 11 (2010-10-24):
Recently, I pondered on a delicate problem for cars that run on E85. Now that it's getting cold outside formed more water in both the oil and the exhaust system - than a few months ago when it was hot and summer. If you make many cold starts and only drive short distances exacerbated this problem. It could make that the oil quickly becomes used, which increases wear and tear on the engine in the form of poor lubrication and corrosion. Even in the exhaust system collected the water so that the catalyst, muffler and low-set hollows become filled with water. This leads eventually to the exhaust system rust away from the inside.
Much depends on the catalyst which does not need to work so hard when the fuel is called E85. The catalyst is cooler and the water that comes in its way will not be volatilized and can then condense before it has passed the exhaust system. It is above all these problems with water formation as the expression; ”fill up with petrol occasionally and it will be good” - comes from. But the question is whether it will be good? For when the water has been set up so it is not so easy to get rid of it (as long as you do not routinely run the car warm of course). Moreover occurs the rust as soon as the water is created and then it must always be worse with a water-forming fuel.
In the case with water in oil I already have a well-functioning system and the engine oil can not accumulate any water, but it is worse for the exhaust system.
Luckily was this problem solved quite quickly, then I understand that the vehicle inspection should approve a few small holes where the water is collected. The hole can be made with a 1.5 mm drill in a muffler, etc. So - with one or two small holes in the exhaust system lowest placed parts, you can continue to run on E85 without having to think about this dilemma in the future. If one regret it and not want to have any holes any more so could one screw into a small sheet metal screw - to seal. Because, specially mufflers are designed in different ways (they can include various chambers and rooms), so is it important to know where the hole should be located - think of it!
|Report 10 (2010-10-21):
I wrote in my last report: ”Will I not on something like G+ again, so then I assume that it will calm down a bit in the future?” - so it was not!
A friend who saw my kitchen said: ”Here it is, Sweden's (only)
Now is DiG here to stay. After a long time and much effort, I have found an even better additive than G+ but it has also been noted that much of what I thought before is not true. Yes that's right in itself, but when things seemed to act a certain way - so it worked in another way instead. It is more and more apparent that at a dose of something which is 0.5 % of fuel volume - gives the best effect. E.g. the dose of the D66 shall be 0.5 % to achieve maximum results, but it also applies for glycol and Di66.
So what's new? D66, i.e. the cleaning additive (against PIB) has been of much greater significance than I previously thought. In fact, it's D66, as beds for all others to work properly. If D66 never had been dosed so would the power increase and the opening time reduction from the rest of the additives be much less. One can also see it as that without a cleaning and lubricating additive achieved nothing. That it is the cleaning/lubrication of the fuel system which is of the essence - not the change of a viscosity-equivalence or improvement of the fuel's ignition properties.
With these staggering facts, I have developed the flagship Di66. This variant of the D66 also contains sulfate, namely ferrous sulfate and it is this metal salt as ”DiG” is based on. So when you want the effect and the opening time to achieve the best possible values, it is sulfate that counts! Who would have thought such a thing? Hardly myself, so I would like to warn all motorists that we now utilize sulfate as a power-added component. There are formed a red coating in the engine's combustion chamber and the spark plugs.
With the exception of D66 has all the other power additives become obsolete and the response to this radical reformation is the extremely significant additive component - Acetone. The way to dispense acetone has changed. The optimal dose should be less than that which appeared from the Internet. Not 0.0023 but rather 0.0018. It is an important discovery that makes a significant difference in the power additive. In the old G3a+ was the acetone content noncompliant with the new data and so it also showed a large positive effect. Now is also all others adjusted in the same way.
G16a has been replaced by G19a and G3a+ of UGA. Unitary Glycol Acetone (UGA) can be adapted for different mixed fuels like E45, E55 or E60 - just to mix and run.
These changes have also led to overall changes of my site. Well, it is not so bad because everything else is left that existed before - it is just a little more beautiful arranged.
|Report 9 (2010-09-02):
Great things are in G plus - one might say. The last time was characterized by hard thinking, but also a lot of field work. All additives are now reformed!
The new cycles is completed with some interesting consumption tests, including several things have I tested V-Power and compare it with unleaded 95 and so on. The biggest news must be attributed to G+. With this specially prepared glycol have I had the opportunity to develop G3a+, a fuel additive with bite! The other big news is that G14a has filed for good. G14a is now replaced by G16a - which is better adapted for summer and winter use. G16 a is based on the ordinary glycol colored blue. This glycol is as good as the red even though it is cheaper. Then the blue variant contain salt inhibitors is the question how adaptable it is for engine fuels? It would be nice to know how many/few cars that are capable of operating on E85 plus G16a without that any conversion has been implemented?
G14a can be converted to G16a or G16a+:
Do not forget to filter the additive after the esbit-powder has been added! G16a+ is made up of antifreeze (longlife G30) and acetone. In addition, also included hexamine or hexamethylenetetramine which Esbit tablets (heat tablets) are made of.
It is sad, if the rumor is true, that Esbit tablets or heat tablets as it it named - is phased out from Europe. The reason is the risk of terrorist activity. Hexamine can be used to produce the high explosive substance RDX. In my younger days I tried this and found that it is not impossible but it requires some skills. Why not (in this case) produce nitro glycol instead and mix it with ..! One at least as cheap and effective explosives may I say...
In addition to this, I have developed a method for analyzing any water in the E85. This method is the result of an intensive lab work, preparation of diagrams and formulas. Through a layer sample and a phase separation sample, can the water content be calculated by means of a small Excel-wizard as is in percentage of the ethanol part - from an arbitrary sample of E85.
The future looks promising. The method that with chemical agents gets a car to operate on E85 has gone surprisingly well. With G3a+ expect I that even the most pigheaded model will accept at least a 50/50 admixture, without further intervention. If it does, you can drive with 60% E85 in the winter - which is not inferior in all cases.
There has been much chemistry the last time, although I have some electronics work underlying on ice. But one has to evaluate all data and the work with the fuel additives have has been priority one. Will I not on something like G+ again, so then I assume that it will calm down a bit in the future?
Comments about Teflon: When it comes to synthetic oils, so we often talk on uniform and synthetic molecules, i.e. a homogeneous substance which retains its structure/properties in the most atrocious conditions, moreover is synthetic oil also good on to separate the engine parts. With these preferences - then why not use Teflon? I mean pure liquid Teflon? It has a viscosity similar to water and its structure is also extremely uniform and homogeneous. In addition, it is the world's most slippery substance and resists relatively high temperatures (340 degrees F). Maybe not so appropriate for a turbocharged engine but maybe a bit suited for nicer environments? What happens if you take an old car, drop it on oil, clean with white spirit and then pour in, for approx. one gallon of liquid Teflon? About 22 bottles are required and each bottle provides about 10 oz - before the butane/propane drifted away... Cost: $100.
|Report 8 (2010-08-02):
First, I must inform you that there are new recommendations about how much Teflon (from Biltema Teflon spray) as should or should not be set in the engine oil. I have noticed that the Teflon does not have an effect on new motor oil if you were using Teflon. It is therefore quite unnecessary to add Teflon to the new motor oil. Teflon can usefully be added later when the oil starts to become worn.
I have also studied a lot about all sorts of under-or miracle cure that for years has been active in the market. For example:
MPG-CAPS (miles per gallon - capsule); High-grade nano-metal oxide that attaches on details in the combustion chamber. Acts as a catalyst in the combustion process.
Similar tablets or liquids reminiscent of mpg-caps, but with other makes, there is how much as we want of it.
Z5; A short piece of pipe with some sort of metal structure, which is positioned in the intake manifold and processing the air before it is fed to the engine.
With more and more...
All that including G14a is quite controversial. However, there is an easy way to check if it works - namely, to test it on my measure car. Is it possible to reduce the pulse duration of the IPE-GS unit so must it work, otherwise not (-:
Back to the engine oil; The site that addresses this is pretty hard edited and are expanded with new material. I have studied three different brands of oil, have produced sufficient quantities of oil with the rope method and the HEPA method and then I have a concept ready, if you intended to use the HEPA method. I have now run 1500 miles with G14a but when I heated the oil to 390 degrees, seemed no traces of glycols.
|Report 7 (2010-07-24):
It has been shown that the purification method with cotton rope has no effect on the soot, i.e. the ”purified” waste oil is as black as the old. This means that soot particles resulting from the rope, but hopefully not for the metal particles? It would surely be able to submit an oil sample from a cotton-rope-cleaning process for an analysis, in order to determine how it is with that? I have also devoted myself to mix different kinds of salts in the engine oil, in order to provoke higher viscosity but it is failing. Engine oil seems to ignore most of it it comes into contact with. When the temperature rises, select the majority of substances, which it shares room with - to flee away. Have also found that pure ethanol is lighter than engine oil and lies down on top. Ethanol should thus easy evaporate from engine oil as long as it not is mixed with water - as it in principles always is.
The change of the fuel consumption with acetone and/or glycol in the tank, is sooner or later host a proper analysis. Although the figures imply a lower consumption in E85 impaled by G14a, the difference appears to be negligible or insignificant. It is about a few per cent here or there, which is likely to be within the margin of error - one may believe. To illustrate what is happening is here a table:
The table shows the position for the potentiometer to IPE-GS, i.e. the pulse extension (the injectors opening time) as required for the fuel. Although G14a reduces the pulse duration by 20-30%, so reducing consumption only marginally or nothing. If you take the difference of 33.1 to 26.1 so it becomes 7. 20% of 7 is 1.4. Adding 1.4 with 26.1 and the mileage are 27.5, not really 26.7. For 30% of the consumption would we have 28.8 mileages and this is an even clearer difference. Fuel consumption ought to decline more - but why does it not?
It is even harder to explain why the engine power increases, by a bit of G14a E85, or with acetone in gasoline, too, for that matter. For these additives, one can very clearly feel that you have more horses under the hood. The rise of the willingness to draw, is evident. Increases the engine power needed normally more fuel, but it does not apply to acetone/G14a - because with these additives increases the engine power but the fuel consumption decreases marginally. Purely speculative, so should a loss in power (the additive) offset by a significantly lower fuel consumption - but in fact it is so, that an increases in power leading to an reduced fuel consumption.
The energy content of the fuel will not increase with G14a - however, so increases the engine power, when the fuel ignited and burned quickly. This in turn leads to reduced fuel consumption. More power makes the car requires less fuel to do the same job, though if you drive on a straight road so do not include this so clearly. If you choose instead to make a measurement on a hilly road so should the consumption fall more. The samples of the consumption I have made on the basis of G14a (or acetone) effects are thus not properly performed.
I should add, that the setting of the potentiometer on the IPE-GS is done via LEDs, which measures the pulse duration at idle, which is compared with a reference pulse length. I want hereby clarify that the car's ECU is perfectly capable of adjusting the pulse duration (opening time), even at idle! If the fuel composition change, so changing the opening time. The ECU will always setting the right opening time very accurate (unless the fuel is differ too much in its energy content) - especially in idling!
|Report 6 (2010-07-18):
Have reflected a bit on G14a the last time and the proportions of glycol respectively acetone. Have you thought of BF95* and E85 is much the same fuel but that only the proportions are different for the ingredients? BF95 containing 5% ethanol and 95% gasoline - while E85 contains 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline.
* BF = BlyFri (LeadFree or unleaded). 95 is an octane number
not a percentage value.
|Report 5 (2010-07-09):
Want to emphasize that the fuel additive G14a shall be done with the red variant of ethylene glycol that does not contain silicates and phosphates. These trace elements (according to the press) seems to have the ability to clog the fuel system. When the glycol-type Longlife G30 does not contain any salts so it is understandable that an acid of some kind like to reacts with the salts I mentioned earlier. Read the report (2010-07-06) for detailed information about different glycols types.
G14a shall be termed as a miracle cure because there need a very small dose. Such a small dose of a substance shall under normal circumstances not affect the capacity of an internal combustion - at all. ED95 contains 5% glycolic special and it is much more than G14a. The need of G14a is 0.5%, so it's 10 times smaller than 5%. Despite this small dose appear a noticeable difference in the engine power.
G14a contains acetone but it mostly consists of (red) glycol as will be tie-up of it, but the smell of G14a gives a clear hints of acetone. G14a mixes quickly in E85 so you need not take any action beyond the surge that will occurs when driving their vehicles, although some form of motion is necessary?
When you have dosed G14a in the ethanol fuel so it can be said that it smells different. It is a sweet and pleasant fragrance that takes away the slightly musty smell some E85 may have. In addition, increases the conductivity. If you have a tank gauge in the fuel tank as I have, it is possible that it going to show more fuel in the beginning but after a while so it tends to stabilize.
|Report 4 (2010-07-08):
It's nice having a little feedback from other daredevil enthusiasts who have taken the step and tested G14a! As I said, 1000 miles is a decent distance but it is still too early to draw any hasty conclusions. Suddenly, you stand there with a car engine that has goo together...
But I find it strange that the industry refuses to acknowledge the acetone and its effect on petrol and diesel? For all these scientists and laboratory workers, nobody has discovered this! It can hardly seem realistic. The market is flooded of various additives and Scania uses are themselves glycol. Surely they ought to have known this medium significance for cars... I mean, both acetone and possibly glycol ought long ago to be in both gasoline and E85, but also in diesel. That this not has been done is amazing, yes even a mystery. At a time when we nearly every day is facing news about the global warming and how this will end, so should be a readily available chemical as acetone is, be a great help to contribute to emissions reduction and a delay of what is to come.
But fortunately, there are amateurs who make sure that acetone/glycol may be a standard in the future - everything else is pure madness.
|Report 3 (2010-07-07):
Then I invented G14a, I drove about 1000 miles with this but I have not detected any change in the absence of a more fuel-efficient engine that is more alert.
I have been in Stockholm and on Gotland and driving during hot summer days. I got an error when I drove around Hall (wilderness) which made the car engine went bad. I thought this was caused by the E85 which I had bought at the Shell petrol station in Visby, but later I found that it was due solely to an error in electronics (a bad resistor of the IPE-GS). It was a pity because I filled the tank with 100 gallon of petrol, however, it did not make any different. These 100 of gallons (Which had fallen to just over 50 gal after being spun around a bit down at Burgsvik, where I saw Cecilia Gralde in a store, moreover) was enough all the way home to Motala again, probably because I spiked it with the required volume of acetone.
It's amazing how big the impact media has. Although I myself have questioned the rumors about ED95 who accidentally incorporated in E85 I assumed that the error was in the fuel. If the brain had acted without outside influence, I would have hopefully solved the problem with the wrong resistor in place.
I have also used the D66 extensively without experiencing anything negative. When the error in the IPE-GS occurred, I overdosed D66 three times the normal dose, but some trends for knocking could I not observe.
|Report 2 (2010-07-06):
I have now found out some more facts concerning antifreeze. Of these, there are basically two different versions (in gas stations, auto part stores etc):
Propylene glycol is less good than ethylene glycol on several levels.
In trade, there are at least two variants of ethylene glycol. The cheaper variety of ethylene glycol (G15) contains silicates and phosphates, so-called inhibitors - which prevents rust/corrosion. While the more expensive and more persistent ethylene glycols (G30) contains sodium ethylhexanoate - which is an acid. The reason why you can not mix these types of ethylene glycol, is due to the inhibitors react with each other. By contrast, it goes well to mix propylene glycol with the cheap variety of the ethylene glycol and for that reason they also have the same color - blue/green. Unlike the more expensive ethylene glycol, which is red. However, avoid mixing different varieties of glycol because it is impossible to establish a freezing point.
I found a site (in Swedish) that tell us a lot about antifreeze.
|Report 1 (2010-07-05):
Since I'm involved in a variety of projects related for etanol/E85, so raised the need of an entirely new page with general information about how it all progresses. You can not cram all the information in one place, so therefore it may be easy to put this here - but it can also happen that I develop my writing, so that sometimes look like a blog... For example, about various rumors and policies - in this case in the form of monologues. E85 is a hot topic and there are a lot of to bone out.
Then this is the first report, it must end up at the bottom here.